Everest

[cwolff]

Big accident this year. 13 sherpas dead and 3 more missing, presumed dead. I don't think they've announced an official death toll but I do believe they gave up the search. That's a huge hit to the climbing community there. I bet it's difficult to replace that many trained sherpas.


A group of about 50 people, mostly Nepali Sherpas, were hit by the avalanche at more than 20,000 feet, said Tilak Ram Pandey of the ministry's mountaineering department.
The avalanche took place just above base camp in the Khumbu Ice Fall.

http://www.cnn.com/2014/04/18/world/asia/nepal-everest-avalanche/

Now the Sherpas have to decide among themselves if they should climb or not this year. They are removed from the foreign clients in camp and discussing it. Some expeditions have already pulled out and decided that they will not climb even if the sherpas continue the season. If the sherpas don't go, there will be a question of compensation. Do they get paid or not. The sherpas make about 5k a year in a country with an average income of $700.00. So far the government of Nepal has paid about $600.00 to the families of dead guides.


Ang Tshering Sherpa of Asian Trekking, which has about two dozen foreign climbers at Everest Base Camp, said his company is still weighing what to do.
"There is a lot of sadness at the moment, and it could be up to a week before a decision is made," he said.

http://www.cnn.com/2014/04/21/world/asia/nepal-everest-avalanche/index.html?hpt=wo_c2

The live broadcast from Discovery of the guy who wanted to wingsuit base jump Everest was immediately cancelled. I really wanted to see that.


The network released this statement on Sunday: “In light of the overwhelming tragedy at Mt. Everest and respect for the families of the fallen, Discovery Channel will not be going forward with Everest Jump Live. Our thoughts and prayers go out to the whole Sherpa community.”

http://insidetv.ew.com/2014/04/20/everest-jump-live-canceled-by-discovery-after-tragedy/

[Latrinsorm]

I really hate to politicize this, but these tragedies are going to continue until we legalize avalanches.

[cwolff]

I really hate to politicize this, but these tragedies are going to continue until we legalize avalanches.

I'm all for it. Colorado records over 2000 a year with as many as 10x that number unreported. We've got to decriminalize this phenomenon.

[Tgo01]

I really hate to politicize this, but these tragedies are going to continue until we legalize avalanches.

Further proof that Latrin = Tgo.

Wait a minute.

[Taernath]

Big accident this year. 13 sherpas dead and 3 more missing, presumed dead. I don't think they've announced an official death toll but I do believe they gave up the search. That's a huge hit to the climbing community there. I bet it's difficult to replace that many trained sherpas.

You have to wait in line to reach the summit of Everest nowdays, I don't think business will suffer much in the long term.

[Velfi]

You have to wait in line to reach the summit of Everest nowdays, I don't think business will suffer much in the long term.

If the sherpas aren't going to climb, then uh, there is no business.

[Taernath]

If the sherpas aren't going to climb, then uh, there is no business.


You have to wait in line to reach the summit of Everest nowdays, I don't think business will suffer much in the long term.

They might not finish the season, that's the only thing that's being debated right now.

[cwolff]

They might not finish the season, that's the only thing that's being debated right now.

If they don't climb no one summits. I don't believe that all the lines are even fixed. Does anyone know high up they've gotten so far?

[cwolff]

It looks like they're not set up. Basically there will be no one to carry all the shit up and down the mountain. Even if the clients wish to try to summit without the support they won't be able to.


The Sherpas who died Friday — in what is the single deadliest day ever on Everest — were setting up ropes and making other preparations near a base camp around 20,000 feet above sea level.
article (http://www.npr.org/blogs/thetwo-way/2014/04/21/305505270/after-tragedy-nepalese-sherpas-may-refuse-to-climb-everest)


The Sherpa guides had gone early in the morning to fix the ropes for hundreds of climbers when the avalanche hit them just below Camp 2 around 630am local time (2am BST), said Nepal tourism ministry official Krishna Lamsal, speaking from the base camp and monitoring the rescue efforts.

...

Hundreds of climbers, their guides and support guides had gathered at the base camp, gearing up for attempts to scale the 8,850-metre (29,035ft) peak early next month when weather conditions become favourable. They have been setting up their camps at higher altitudes with guides fixing routes and ropes on the slopes ahead of the ascent to the summit in May.

article (http://www.theguardian.com/world/2014/apr/18/mount-everest-avalanche-climbers)

[Ker_Thwap]

Pop Mech (http://www.popularmechanics.com/outdoors/survival/stories/the-dangerous-lives-of-sherpas-16718212?click=pm_latest)ran a thoughtful article about this.

The money line was ... they died because they were enticed by us to do a risky job for a frivolous reason.

[Velfi]

That's pretty much the story of climbing Everest these days, it's just a bucket list item for rich people who can fork out $50k+ for a guide and sherpas to haul them, their stuff, and their oxygen up the mountain and back down.

[Velfi]

There are also much more radical attempts like what Ueli Steck tried to do last year I believe it was, but those are very few and far between. Also, Ueli is not a human.

[cwolff]

There are also much more radical attempts like what Ueli Steck tried to do last year I believe it was, but those are very few and far between. Also, Ueli is not a human.

There was talk last year of taking a year off with no permits issued. It was because of the fight and the massive amounts trash and feces piling up all over the place. After the fight people started to call for some spiritual enlightenment regarding Everest. I don't think it ever was taken seriously. That'd be like calling off the Super Bowl. I did think of it though when I heard about the deaths and the possible cancellation of the season. It's like the Mountain is taking her revenge.

Anywho, was Ueli one of the climbers in the fight?

[waywardgs]

That's pretty much the story of climbing Everest these days, it's just a bucket list item for rich people who can fork out $50k+ for a guide and sherpas to haul them, their stuff, and their oxygen up the mountain and back down.

^

I'm planning on climbing McKinley/Denali next year, which is considered a "training" mountain for Everest. (It's not, Denali can be wicked.) anyway, climbing Everest is a monied, ego-driven operation, and Sherpas are used like dogs to walk up and down repeatedly some of the most dangerous sections. It's sad.

[Velfi]

Anywho, was Ueli one of the climbers in the fight?

Yeah, Ueli was one of the guys climbing above the sherpas.

[cwolff]

^

I'm planning on climbing McKinley/Denali next year, which is considered a "training" mountain for Everest. (It's not, Denali can be wicked.) anyway, climbing Everest is a monied, ego-driven operation, and Sherpas are used like dogs to walk up and down repeatedly some of the most dangerous sections. It's sad.

If Everest were at Denali's latitude it'd be impossible to climb. How'd you decide to go up Denali anyway? Do you do a lot of climbing?

[Velfi]

Watching his speed ascent on the north face of the Eiger is unreal, if you can find a copy of the whole thing.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VUWBbepsdmY

[waywardgs]

If Everest were at Denali's latitude it'd be impossible to climb. How'd you decide to go up Denali anyway? Do you do a lot of climbing?

Pretty much cause climbing is the best thing ever. I've been getting into it more and more; while I hiked the pct I did a bunch of side trips peakbagging along the way. Figured it was a solid, doable goal for a year from now. Planning on some training climbs this summer. I'd love to do el cap,but that's a different beast altogether. Maybe by the end of the summer.

[cwolff]

Pretty much cause climbing is the best thing ever. I've been getting into it more and more; while I hiked the pct I did a bunch of side trips peakbagging along the way. Figured it was a solid, doable goal for a year from now. Planning on some training climbs this summer. I'd love to do el cap,but that's a different beast altogether. Maybe by the end of the summer.

Are you doing technical routes? You might as well live in CO btw. You can peakbag every weekend.

[waywardgs]

Watching his speed ascent on the north face of the Eiger is unreal, if you can find a copy of the whole thing.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VUWBbepsdmY

He's a badass. Climbing is a fascinating sport.

[waywardgs]

Are you doing technical routes? You might as well live in CO btw. You can peakbag every weekend.

Yeah, I grew up in minnesota. Nothing to climb around there except for trees. I feel like I missed out, haha. Never too late :)

Edit: I did some minor technical stuff borrowing gear from folks I met along the way. It's not feasible to thruhike with climbing gear- although I applaud the person who decides to try and hike with a full rack, climbing the whole way. That'd be amazing.

[cwolff]

Yeah, I grew up in minnesota. Nothing to climb around there except for trees. I feel like I missed out, haha. Never too late :)

I used to climb a lot. A little bit with an outdoor club then my Marine unit had a mountaineering mission and I was one of the lead climbers. I think that I don't miss it much. There were times when I was just shit your pants scared.

I do some 14ers now and then. Have always wanted to go up Denali too. Just to do it. I think it'd be a great climb but you're right about it being much more dangerous than people think. If everything goes well, then that's o.k., but if bad weather comes in that far north and so close to the Ocean...you can have a bad time of it.

[cwolff]

Yeah, I grew up in minnesota. Nothing to climb around there except for trees. I feel like I missed out, haha. Never too late :)

Edit: I did some minor technical stuff borrowing gear from folks I met along the way. It's not feasible to thruhike with climbing gear- although I applaud the person who decides to try and hike with a full rack, climbing the whole way. That'd be amazing.

HAHAHA, I'd love to see someone try that. It'd be performance art if anything.

[Velfi]

He's a badass. Climbing is a fascinating sport.

I agree. I don't have anywhere near the nuts to climb mountains, being scared of heights and all, but I can't get enough of reading about it or watching documentaries.

There's one on Netflix called Touching The Void and it's pretty amazing.

[waywardgs]

I agree. I don't have anywhere near the nuts to climb mountains, being scared of heights and all, but I can't get enough of reading about it or watching documentaries.

There's one on Netflix called Touching The Void and it's pretty amazing.

I've sucked netflix dry of climbing docs. If you want something a little different, watch 180 degrees south. That's on netflix. Great movie.

[cwolff]

I've sucked netflix dry of climbing docs. If you want something a little different, watch 180 degrees south. That's on netflix. Great movie.

Have you seen touching the void though? That's the one where they cuts his buddy loose and the dude crawls back to camp with a broken leg?

[waywardgs]

HAHAHA, I'd love to see someone try that. It'd be performance art if anything.

I talked about it with some of the people I hiked/climbed with... You could do it if you had someone sending/following you with gear, but walking 2600 miles is hard enough with a pack, let alone 60 lbs of rope and pro, etc. you'd have to move crazy fast to spend your extra time climbing. There are places along the way you could spend weeks fucking around at.

[cwolff]

I talked about it with some of the people I hiked/climbed with... You could do it if you had someone sending/following you with gear, but walking 2600 miles is hard enough with a pack, let alone 60 lbs of rope and pro, etc. you'd have to move crazy fast to spend your extra time climbing. There are places along the way you could spend weeks fucking around at.

What did your gear weigh?

[waywardgs]

Have you seen touching the void though? That's the one where they cuts his buddy loose and the dude crawls back to camp with a broken leg?

Yeah, it's a good one. There's also into thin air and a few other things available for streaming. A lot of it's mediocre; it's tough to make a great alpine climbing doc. But I thoroughly reccomend 180 south. Cool story, and the founders of Patagonia are in it. OG dirtbags.

[waywardgs]

What did your gear weigh?

I was heavy at around 18 lbs baseweight minus food and water. My longest stretch was 10 days between resupply, with a total of 55 lbs with food. Some ultralight people are sub 12, 10 pounds. But if I did it again I'd add like 20 lbs of camera gear just to document it better and just deal with it.

[cwolff]

I was heavy at around 18 lbs baseweight minus food and water. My longest stretch was 10 days between resupply, with a total of 55 lbs with food. Some ultralight people are sub 12, 10 pounds. But if I did it again I'd add like 20 lbs of camera gear just to document it better and just deal with it.

Ya, 18's not bad at all. That was an extra 37lbs of food and water?

[waywardgs]

Ya, 18's not bad at all. That was an extra 37lbs of food and water?

Yeah, food and water starting out- that was the most my pack ever weighed. I ate a lot. Haha. The thing about thruhiking is that mathematically you can't ever carry "enough" food, cause every pound of food you carry, you end up burning through more than it's caloric value by carrying it. It's always a catch-up game.

[cwolff]

Yeah, food and water starting out- that was the most my pack ever weighed. I ate a lot. Haha. The thing about thruhiking is that mathematically you can't ever carry "enough" food, cause every pound of food you carry, you end up burning through more than it's caloric value by carrying it. It's always a catch-up game.

Oh ya. That's a bitch for sure. Was water plentiful. When I lived in WI I acclimated to the water, or at least never got sick, so I could always drink from any stream, pond or lake. No water issues in WI anyway. MN either.

How'd you pick the PCT vs. the AT or CDT? BTW, did you read Jardine's book before your hike?

[waywardgs]

Oh ya. That's a bitch for sure. Was water plentiful. When I lived in WI I acclimated to the water, or at least never got sick, so I could always drink from any stream, pond or lake. No water issues in WI anyway. MN either.

How'd you pick the PCT vs. the AT or CDT? BTW, did you read Jardine's book before your hike?

Water is only a problem in some areas, like the deserts of southern california or certain areas in nocal/oregon.

When I decided I wanted to go for a "long walk" I hadn't even heard of any of the trails. My original plan was to walk from Neah Bay WA to Key West FL with my dog, raising money for the human society along the way. I found out about the national scenic trails during my research for that trip and decided I should probably do one of those as a test trip before I brought my dog along. I'm glad I did, haha. I chose the PCT because the AT is packed with people and the CDT doesn't go up as high :)

And no, I hadn't even heard of Ray Jardine's book before I started. I just sort of winged it. I think I spent around 2-3 weeks planning. Figured it out along the way. You learn quick that way. At this point I could tell you basically anything you'd ever want to know about thruhiking though :)

[cwolff]

Water is only a problem in some areas, like the deserts of southern california or certain areas in nocal/oregon.

When I decided I wanted to go for a "long walk" I hadn't even heard of any of the trails. My original plan was to walk from Neah Bay WA to Key West FL with my dog, raising money for the human society along the way. I found out about the national scenic trails during my research for that trip and decided I should probably do one of those as a test trip before I brought my dog along. I'm glad I did, haha. I chose the PCT because the AT is packed with people and the CDT doesn't go up as high :)

And no, I hadn't even heard of Ray Jardine's book before I started. I just sort of winged it. I think I spent around 2-3 weeks planning. Figured it out along the way. You learn quick that way. At this point I could tell you basically anything you'd ever want to know about thruhiking though :)

That's awesome. Hopefully I'll need that advice. I'd love to do the AT. Probably just for the rich history of it and Bryson's book. I'm applying for a 6-12 month long reality show/discovery type thing. It's 1 person with just what you can carry in a survival situation I guess. When I say apply it means I just heard about it and am hoping to talk to the people putting it together. Ya, apply is a strong word. Anyway, maybe it'll be something cool.

[cwolff]

Looks like Everest climbs may not happen this year. Makes me wonder if there are any groups who will attempt it without Sherpa help.


As Sherpas leave Mount Everest and expedition groups cancel their climbing plans, Nepalese officials are meeting with the indigenous guides as they mourn the deaths of 16 of their own in an avalanche on April 18.
Read more at http://indiancountrytodaymedianetwork.com/2014/04/24/sherpa-guides-leave-everest-deference-fallen-colleagues-154594

[Drisco]

I watched Summit on Netflix like two days ago (K2), and I have no idea anyone would want to climb a mountain. That shit is dangerous and it took the people 3 months to climb it. I have no idea if this is like Everest but fuck that. They said for every 4 people who climb K2 1 person dies.

[waywardgs]

Looks like Everest climbs may not happen this year. Makes me wonder if there are any groups who will attempt it without Sherpa help.

Actually it might open up the mountain more to actual climbers who normally have to wait around for the big money ego alpinists. The real guys move way faster, minimizing their exposure times.

[waywardgs]

I watched Summit on Netflix like two days ago (K2), and I have no idea anyone would want to climb a mountain. That shit is dangerous and it took the people 3 months to climb it. I have no idea if this is like Everest but fuck that. They said for every 4 people who climb K2 1 person dies.

Because it's there.

[Mobius1]

I watched Summit on Netflix like two days ago (K2), and I have no idea anyone would want to climb a mountain. That shit is dangerous and it took the people 3 months to climb it. I have no idea if this is like Everest but fuck that. They said for every 4 people who climb K2 1 person dies.

Yeah, been a huge outdoorsman my whole life, and have climbed many a mountain. But never anything dangerous! It has always been just scrambling up Sierra peaks with my backpack (I'm one of those ultralighters with the crazy light packs :P).

But I have never seen the appeal of putting my life at risk over it. I like my life :D

I may climb Mt. Whitney this year, but that's a safe (but amazingly beautiful) hike!

[Velfi]

I watched Summit on Netflix like two days ago (K2), and I have no idea anyone would want to climb a mountain. That shit is dangerous and it took the people 3 months to climb it. I have no idea if this is like Everest but fuck that. They said for every 4 people who climb K2 1 person dies.

K2 is the real mountain, Everest is a poor shadow.

Everest gets all the acclaim because it's ~750' higher or so, but peaks like K2 and Annapurna are in a whole other world of difficulty and challenge compared to Everest.