Advice for People with Cars

[Jack]

Allright, the only thing I can figure is, people outside of the automotive industry are completely clueless about how things work. I work at a Lexus Dealership in Houston Texas, I am an automotive technicion. I am the one who has to fix your car... There are some basic rules you should know, before bringing your car to a shop like mine.

1.) The Service Writer doesn't fix your car, they don't know a whole lot about cars, and are trained customer service personel. Asking them in depth questions will not get you any useful information. Tell them you want to talk to the Tech who'll actually be doing the work if you have detailed questions.

2.) You don't know more about cars than I do. If you did, you would be doing my job. If you insist on telling me how to do my job, I am going to make up shit and charge you for it. Because your left drive axle detent bearings wear out much faster these days due to the use of stainless steel instead of high carbon steel. Never mind the fact that they don't exist....

3.) Before you come to me with a wierd rattling sound coming from the center console of your car, and throw a fit at the service writer over your 80,000 dollar car sounding like an old pinto, remove the five pounds of change from inside said console. Amazing how that works.

4.) I charge 350 dollars for a brake job, Minike charges 99 dollars. There's a reason for that. I use an on car brake lathe, and cut your rotors to account for wheel hub run out. I also use factory parts. Minike cuts them off the car, and uses the cheapest pads possible. Don't like my price? Then go to Minike, but don't bitch when your brakes squeek all the time, and you don't stop very well.

5.) Don't bring your car to me and ask me to swap out your "Internals". That's the most ridiculous thing I've ever heard. I've had two kids come to me saying this. Yes, forged pistons, crankshafts, etc. are stronger than stock. You don't need them. If you are in a position where you do, go to a speed shop. I fix cars, I don't put crap in them so that you can go play Fast and Furious with your friends.

6.) Don't authorize me to do work that you can't afford. I don't want to take your car, but I will.

Okay, I'm done for now. I'll add to the list if I manage to come up with anything else.

[Suppa Hobbit Mage]

I wouldn't come to someone in the customer service industry so full of themself as you, probably ever. I realize you are probably just ranting, and if that's the case, I dig it (do it myself sometimes). But if you had that attitude, regardless of your expertise in the field, I'd say fuck off, and go to Minike and get cheap breaks that squeek, than pay you two cents.

[Wezas]

5) If they're paying, what's the problem? After I bolt on my head and exhaust, I might be looking at cams. Would you turn me away? Are they looking for some kind of warranty?

[Mistomeer]

My center console rattles.

[Back]

Why would a left front tire squeek when going in reverse?

[Jack]

I'm not in customer service. I'm a tech, the service writers are the customer service people. That said, this was/is more of a rant than anything else...


I won't ruin someone's car by putting in forged pistons and all that other nonsense. I don't have the time more than anything else. I get paid by the job, not by the hour. For example, an oil change is 4/10ths of an hours pay, or 24 minutes. I can do an oil change in 5-10 minutes. That means I can sit on the lube rack and rake in 8-10 hours pay in one morning. Suspension problems I get paid for my time doing diagnosis, then flat rate pay to fix the problem. Performance/Drivability, same thing, A/C is flat rate based on the problem. On these things I can beat the flat rate time, and make money on them. Tearing down an engine, replacing pistons, rods, crankshafts, etc. That's going to take me two full days at least, so 16-18 hours of work. There is no flat rate on the books for that kind of work, so I get paid for the time I work, and that's it.

After you bolt on your head and exhaust, I wouldn't do your cams. If you came to me asking about it, I'd give you a list of places in the area that can do it, and probably do it better than me.

edited to make sense.

[Edited on 9-20-2004 by Jack]

[Jack]

Originally posted by Backlash
Why would a left front tire squeek when going in reverse?

I need more information. The tire squeeks, or the wheel, or the brakes? Only in reverse? Continually squeeks while going backwards, or does it only happen when you first start to move?

[Back]

Either wheel or brakes? Only reverse. No squeek at first, but after a few feet, a very loud high pitch tone. Louder when backing out at a turn. Its still under warranty. Was just curious. Thanks.

[Jack]

If it's under warranty take it in. It sounds like either brake pads dragging on the rotor, or a wheel bearing issue. Could also be a CV joint going out, lot of possibilities, but without seeing it I can't say what it is for sure.

[Drew]

I don't work on cars for a living, but here's something that always gets me, if you are doing a track day for the first time and you have me help you put on high performance brake pad (which is a great idea) don't complain that they squeak. That's what high performance brake pads do. Regular brake pads literally have saw dust or other paper products in them to stop them from squeaking, which is one of the reasons that they are prone to overheat, sawdust is not a great conducter of heat.


I feel like that segment on Conan, "Pierre Bernard's Recliner of Rage", where he rants about something that affects five people nation-wide.

[Caiylania]

I have never done any of that. :D I'm a good car customer. Cheer!

My friend's have picked on me for taking the car into the dealership to get work done vs local shop. I told them pretty much the reasons you gave above. They laugh, their cars break mine doesn't.

[Mistomeer]

I take my car to the dealership. The service manager is a friend of the family, so it works out quite well. He also sold me the car when he was in sales, so even better. He made nice commission off me so he takes care of the car for me. Also, my damn center air vents rattle and he blamed it on the $30 in change in the ashtray. It wasn't the problem at all.

[Soulpieced]

Rotor problems probably. I had to get my front ones replaced because of wear. I had loud squealing while braking and turning. Never really paid attention if it happened in reverse, but it could be rotors.

[Jack]

The major difference, aside from price of course, between taking your car to a local garage, and taking it to a dealership service center, is the amount of training the techs have. A dealership tech has formal training on the vehicle's theya re working on, from the manufacturer. A tech at a local garage recieves generic training, and works on so many different makes and models that they can't specialize in any speccific vehicle type. A dealership tech works on the same type of car every day, so they know what they are doing. There's also a monetary factor involved. A garage can't afford to buy the latest and greatest equipment to work on the newest model vehicles, a dealership has to have that equipment. So you pay more at the dealership, but the quality of work will always be better. Oh, and while I am thinking about it, I'll add number 6...

6.) If you bring your car to the dealership for a problem, and it is still acting up when you leave, come back the next day. Tell them the problem isn't fixed, and don't take crap from the service writer. With a comeback situation, generally the tech doesn't get paid, so you shouldn't have to pay for anything but parts.

[Skirmisher]

Well i have found that on many pure mechanical problems my local mechanic has been quite capable and less expensive.

For anything at all electrical or computer oriented I bring it to a dealer as they as has been pointed out know the machine far better and just know all the glitches and such to look for.

[Blazing247]

<2.) You don't know more about cars than I do. If you did, you would be doing my job. If you insist on telling me how to do my job, I am going to make up shit and charge you for it. Because your left drive axle detent bearings wear out much faster these days due to the use of stainless steel instead of high carbon steel. Never mind the fact that they don't exist.... >

This isn't always true. I have probably one of the most poorly manufactured foreign cars in recent history, a 5.5th generation Maxima. After multiple visits to the stealership (what my dad, a retired Ford tech calls all dealerships), they were unable to fix my problems. I did a little bit of research, solved both of the rather large problems my car was having, and took it to a local guy, after having my car in the dealership on three or four different occasions.

<A dealership tech has formal training on the vehicle's theya re working on, from the manufacturer. A tech at a local garage recieves generic training, and works on so many different makes and models that they can't specialize in any speccific vehicle type.>

This isn't always true. Dealership techs DO have more specific training and better equipment, but that does not mean they are more knowledgeable or better at servicing your car than the local guy. I met a guy through a mutual friend at work, and he has solved some serious issues in my car that the "factory trained techs" were baffled by. The problem is, many techs at the dealership will sit there and go down a list of possibilities that is written out for them in the form of TSB's, instead of actually trying to figure out what's wrong using their own instincts.

[Jack]

You can point out exceptions to the rule as much as you want, but for the most part what I said is true. Jimbo at the local pep boys may be a great mechanic, and when you find him, by all means take your car to him when it has a problem. Generally though, if you have a newer car, the dealership will be worth the extra money.

I agree with Jack's first post.

- Arkans

[Staceyrain]

I fix my own cars, and thats what most people should do, then you would know when you actually need the rotors trued or if your need for speed requires new guts in an engine or maybe just a blueprint an d balance

[Blazing247]

<Jimbo at the local pep boys may be a great mechanic>

Pep Boys? I'm insulted. I only go their when I throw a code, so they can read it for free.

[Mistomeer]

Originally posted by Staceyrain
I fix my own cars, and thats what most people should do, then you would know when you actually need the rotors trued or if your need for speed requires new guts in an engine or maybe just a blueprint an d balance

Yeah, me too.
Oh, wait, I couldn't fix my car to save my life unless you count putting gas in it.

[Back]

So I’m moving to the city. Alas, my Mazda6 is built for cruising. Large footprint and turning radius, low, wonderful on the highway. But to big for the narrow bumpy streets of the city. On top of that it snows...

So what would people recommend I trade in for? I’m thinking something smaller, more squirrly... AWD. First thing that comes to mind is the Subaru (lesbaru) WRX. I loathe stationwagons, but might even consider an Outback. Or one of those funky Bajas.

Suggestions please before I get into something weird. What other options do I have? Like, what can I do to a Honda, say, to make it road worthy in such conditions?

[Artha]

So what would people recommend I trade in for?

You need an H2.

[Latrinsorm]

Get a (Ford, naturally) truck.

[Back]

I almost traded my 6s in for a new Suzuki Aerio LX AWD... except, right before I was ready to sign, I asked them to confirm it was AWD, and it wasn’t!!!

Anyway, maybe next weekend. Anyone have one or know someone who does? I need the inside scoop!

[Wezas]

For AWD cars, depending on your price range, the Subaru Impreza 2.5 RS (MSRP 20k), WRX (MSRP 25k), and STI (MSRP 31k) are all nice cars.

[Back]

Yeah. I even considered the Outback and the Baja. Add about 7K to all those figures. I’d even consider a used WRX, if I could find one around here. No luck yet.

[AlahnnaDenale]

WRX is prolly what you're looking for.

If you want the Outback's niceties but without the Station-Wagon, look at the Outback SUS (Sport Utility Sedan).

-Alana drives a 2002 Outback SUS Limited.

[Wezas]

I was at a car meet last night that had 2 nice looking blue STI's. They both had custom exhaust, and one guy had the turbo bumped up a few lbs.

Both very nice.

[AlahnnaDenale]

Fucking with an STI's tuning is a bad idea. People actually tend to LOSE Horsepower when they start bolting on parts or tweaking the boost.

Those things are tuned to the nth degree.

[Back]

Very very few sub-compacts come with AWD. I need something small and squirrly. I drove the Aerio today. It cuts pretty tight, has a little snort, and is good on gas. The interior is crap. I got all used to adjustable leather seats, CD control on the wheel, and a sturdy enclosure with airbags all around. Oh well. It has a 6 CD changer that sounds decent.

[Jazuela]

Does VW still manufacture the Rabbit? I had two of them - standard 4-cylindar and a deisel. The first one hopped around just like a rabbit, no kidding. The thing had this amazing accelleration where you'd just touch the gas pedal and you'd be halfway down the block. Stopped and turned on a dime, easy to maneuver, got freaking 35 MPG, and two body builders could help any little old lady who gets stuck parked between two bulldozers by just picking the thing up and carrying it out of the parking space.

For a cheap-ass piece of tin, it was a spectactular vehicle and I had a blast owning it. The deisel was almost as good but I hated having to prime it in the winter. I would often just plain forget to pull that thingie out of the dash and end up stalled halfway down the block of my house.

If I was gonna buy another car, I'd probably get something like the rabbit again, or a Mazda. I love the German engineering of the Rabbit though, and they now make low-end Porsches for us "po-folk" so maybe I'd go for one of those.

For an SUV though there's nothing like a Ford. My mechanics tells me he hardly ever sees them in the shop - which means they don't NEED a mechanic that often. He also tells me that out of all the crashes involving SUVs, the Ford Explorer comes out with the least damage, and the least injury to the drivers and passengers. I figure, who knows better about this stuff than the guys who work on these things all day long, right?

Second opinion at another shop was no different. They all say the Ford Explorer family of SUVs are the best overall. Best gas mileage for their class, best protection from injury, least damage, lowest maintenence costs, least need for repairs. Plus they're more affordable than their bigger counterparts like the Lexus and Cadillac and Range Rover.

The Aztec is pretty neat looking though, I saw one up close in the parking lot the other day. I'm gonna have to take a look into those when I finally break down and get rid of Old Faithful - the 1993 Ford Explorer Sport I've owned and loved for the past 10 years.

[Back]

http://a904.g.akamai.net/7/904/506/v0011/images.autobytel.com/view/aic/PONTIAC/AZTEK/spe/usa_2005_PONTIAC_AZTEK_spe_4_x_exrrpass75_x.jpg

I dunno. Those Azteks are hideous. Stick with the Explorer. I really like the Ford Explorer Sport Trac.


http://a904.g.akamai.net/7/904/506/v0011/images.autobytel.com/view/aic/FORD/EXPLORERSPORTTRAC/spe/usa_2005_FORD_EXPLORERSPORTTRAC_spe_4_x_exdrvrsd_x .jpg

[Jazuela]

The pickup is nice, but we'll be getting an X-cab in addition to an SUV. We won't want the pickup to have such a big cab - just a little extra in the back that isn't big enough to need its own set of doors.

The reason I was thinking maybe the Aztec is because it's so odd looking. Interesting in an old Gremlin kinda way. If it performs like a Gremlin though, and has the same issues the Gremlin had, fuggedaboudit. Upon first glance my primary concern would be all that glass in the hatch. That's GOTTA be expensive to replace if it breaks.

[Bobmuhthol]

In response to Backlash's pictures,

The Top Four Ugliest Cars on the Road (http://maddox.xmission.com/c.cgi?u=ugly_cars)

[Dhuul]

My car had one of those rattling things, wasn't change, but it went away...

[Edited on 9-26-2004 by Dhuul]

[El Burro]

dill1997.. Race a Lot!! i meen i have a lamborgienie Galardo that has all racepackage so do not go to cheats try very hard and don't giv up. O P.S. i am done with the game start with the Mazda rx8 and P.S.S. MY LAMBO IS BLACK IT IS SO TITE!

[Skeeter]

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e321/Bigboy9/lich.jpg

[Gan]

:wtf:

[Ignot]

dill1997.. Race a Lot!! i meen i have a lamborgienie Galardo that has all racepackage so do not go to cheats try very hard and don't giv up. O P.S. i am done with the game start with the Mazda rx8 and P.S.S. MY LAMBO IS BLACK IT IS SO TITE!

is that english?

[Celephais]

is that english?
http://www.deadlylight.com/images/englishmf.gif
Check out the big brain on El Burro.

[AestheticDeath]

Hah.. you own a Lamborghini, and can't even spell the name?

PS Try two Ls

[Celephais]

Hah.. you own a Lamborghini, and can't even spell the name?

PS Try two Ls

Best I can gather (without looking for poster dillwhatever) he's talking about a game like Gran Turismo. He is saying "Start with the Mazda RX8" so... I'm guessing it's advice on how to beat the game, "race a lot" to get money to buy the lambo.

[Ignot]

He got a snook in his sniz yo!

[El Burro]

WTF! Damned kids. Guess I need to start logging off after visiting the PC... Carry on