Climber attempts 1st solo ascent of Denali in January

[Showal]

Lonnie Dupre is attempting the first January solo ascent of Denali.

http://lonniedupre.com/index.php



Denali, aka Mount McKinley, in Alaska, is North America's highest mountain at 20,320 feet. Denali's high latitude (being close to the Arctic) makes it feel like a 23,000-foot peak. This, along with its unpredictable weather and vast crevasse fields, makes it a challenging climb in summer even by Himalayan standards. But in the winter it's a whole different set of conditions. Winds often exceed 100 miles per hour, temperatures plummet below -50F, and there's an average of only six hours of sunlight.

Only nine expeditions totaling 16 people have ever reached the summit of Denali in winter. Six deaths resulted from those climbs. Only one team (comprised of three Russian climbers) has ever made the summit in January...the dead of winter. Of those nine original expeditions, four were solo, but none of the solos were in January, the darkest and coldest time.


This guy plans to carry no tent and only sleep in snow caves.

I'm posting this kind of late, but today he hopes to make it to the top of the headwall, which will bring him to about 16,000 ft.

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_4v4KxEmqwIY/TTUSN3pFDhI/AAAAAAAAADk/WYjyWtYjd4c/s1600/january+16+14%252C200+headwall+snowcave.jpg

The headwall ends just a little above the highest point seen in this picture. The picture doesn't do the headwall justice. It is a slope steeper than 50 degrees.

From my own trip, the headwall up close looks like this:

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h232/captnas99/headwall.jpg

He's reporting that the winds are too high to attempt the 16k ridge to make it to 17.2k camp. The crux of that portion is Washburn's Thumb:

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h232/captnas99/thumb.jpg

It's kind of hard to see in that picture, but it's very difficult to maneuver around, even for our team (nevermind solo). The ridge is perhaps the scariest part of the West Buttress route.

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h232/captnas99/AK4.jpg

Good luck Lonnie!

[Androidpk]

Looks like a fun place to go sledding.

[4a6c1]

Holy crap. That mountain is intimidating even from 5 miles away.

[Showal]

They're predicting a stretch of bad weather over the next week or so. Hopefully that's not the case. Only 12 days left in the month.

Rojo, you've been in the range before, right?

[AnticorRifling]

That's an awesome feat.

[Showal]

Looks like a fun place to go sledding.

A lot of people go sledding or skiing down the lower portions of the headwall in the afternoon during the regular climbing season. If you ask me, it's a dumb way to take a helicopter off the mountain and end an expensive trip. Nevermind all the energy you waste climbing when you don't need to. I spent 21 days on the mountain and came back about 14 pounds lighter. I wonder how much this guy's going to lose this month.

[4a6c1]

They're predicting a stretch of bad weather over the next week or so. Hopefully that's not the case. Only 12 days left in the month.

Rojo, you've been in the range before, right?

Pshh. PSHHH. I've not actually climed Denali, no. And by climb I am talking vertical holding onto things. Since the base is quite an expanse I would say I have probably hiked the bottom on an outing that lasted a month. Closest I've gotten to anything cool Denali related.

Polychrome Mountain was my go to because it's pretty accessible and if I got stuck it was easy to get out.

[Latrinsorm]

Seriously, what do you think his chances of surviving are, 50/50 at best? At what point do we have to say this guy is just suicidal?

[Drew]

I've only climbed K2.

[Showal]

Seriously, what do you think his chances of surviving are, 50/50 at best? At what point do we have to say this guy is just suicidal?

I would say his chances of surviving are better than 50/50. I say this because he's very experienced and is using his best judgement. I'd doubt he's going to make some seriously bad decision that would result in his death.

His chances of success, I'd put at probably a little less than 5% at this point. He's set himself up real nice given the amount of time he has left and probably has about as good of a chance as he could hope for. If the weather holds out, he's golden. If it doesn't, spending any length of time at high camp (especially alone) in bad weather is very demoralizing. I spent 5 days at high camp in, for the most part, decent weather and I thought my team was going to crack.

His best chance is crossing that ridge and summiting the next day. He took a rest day at 14k camp and now he's camping above the headwall (hopefully he made it here today). That climb up the headwall and not crossing the ridge is basically half a rest day. When he does cross the ridge to high camp, it'll be basically another half of a rest day. Weather permitting, he won't take any additional time at high camp. You only get weaker at that high an altitude, so any rest day up there is just wasted time. The good news is, he won't be lugging all his shit from camp to the summit so his pack should be relatively light.

Most accidents happen on the descent so I doubt anything will happen over the next few days. Coming down, solo, across that ridge and then down the headwall will probably be the worst part. Crossing Windy Corner as a descent won't be too bad but Squirrel Hill might present some challenges. If he gets past that, Motorcycle Hill should be easy (plus he'll be getting stronger due to being lower on the mountain). On the lower Kahiltna, the glacier should have plenty of strong snowbridges and Heartbreak Hill will finally be a piece of cake.

The only thing he has to do in the next 12 days is summit. He can take more time coming down.

[Fallen]

How do you pass the time when waiting for days on the side of a mountain? Hallucinogens? Boyish night poundings?

[Showal]

I'll treat this like it's a serious question. Eating, reading and lots of sleep.

The last thing you want to do is remove your pants and try to mount the guy next to you. Think about it. How long was it since you last washed your crotch at that point? How long since he last cleaned his ass? You're wearing the same clothes since you started and you've been sweating, a lot, due to physical activity. The last thing that crosses your mind is anything sexual.

My tentmate put it best. At 14k camp, there are toilets. By toilets, I mean the rangers dig a 40 ft hole in the snow and it's covered by some wood and something that looks like a toilet. You lift the top and you're hit with the fumes of several hundred climbers' shits and piss. My tentmate said "You know you're bad when you drop your pants to go shit and the smell of your own crotch is more sickening than lifting the top of the toilet"

[WRoss]

Can I put him in my death pool?

[Fallen]

I'll treat this like it's a serious question. Eating, reading and lots of sleep.

Must suck trying to lug any amount of books up there. Would you risk dragging an E-reader along? I imagine that would help a lot.

[Showal]

Can I put him in my death pool?

hahaha

[Showal]

Must suck trying to lug any amount of books up there. Would you risk dragging an E-reader along? I imagine that would help a lot.

Usually you bring a single book. I brought two. At the higher camps, people walk around from camp to camp asking if anyone wants to trade. The most valuable commodity at higher camps is toilet paper. For such a light object, a lot of people seem to skimp on the amount of TP they carry.

[Gan]

The most valuable commodity at higher camps is toilet paper. For such a light object, a lot of people seem to skimp on the amount of TP they carry.

So that's why you brought 2 books!

[4a6c1]

Would you risk dragging an E-reader along? I imagine that would help a lot.

It will be too cold for non-essential batteries. He will probably already be packing his electronics against his skin to keep them live.

January is insane. Wow. Who does that.

[Showal]

he made it to 17200 camp. I expect he should make it soon.

[Showal]

It looks like he's too tired now and taking a rest day. I think the weather's supposed to be awful until next Wednesday. That doesn't sound so good.

[IorakeWarhammer]

just got word from 17200 camp. he met a mountain yeti which gave him a frightful rim job. 2 pounds lighter, he is now ready to ascend the peak, yeti in tow.

[Showal]

http://kstp.com/news/stories/S1943812.shtml?cat=1

Attempt called off.


After setting a record pace to 17,200, Lonnie was set for a summit attempt, but mother nature decided that it would "test" him for 7 days, with winds up to 100 mph, temperatures reaching -50 and a 5.4 magnitude earthquake. After 7 days at 17,200 with dwindling supplies and being inactive for so long he lost considerable strength and conditioning. Yesterday's small break in the weather gave him the opportunity to move down to 14,200. There is an old saying that you don't "***k" with mother nature, and I think Lonnie knows and respects that power more than ever!

Good work Lonnie. Brave attempt but smart decision.

[EasternBrand]

I think you would agree it's just not smart to pit the limits of human endurance against the majesty of God's creation, right? As I'm sure your pastor would tell you, the hubris is just astounding.

[Fallen]

I think you would agree it's just not smart to pit the limits of human endurance against the majesty of God's creation, right? As I'm sure your pastor would tell you, the hubris is just astounding.

So, what you're saying is fixed wing flight and space exploration are the devil? Agreed.

[Showal]

I think you would agree it's just not smart to pit the limits of human endurance against the majesty of God's creation, right? As I'm sure your pastor would tell you, the hubris is just astounding.

I spoke with my pastor late last night after our nightly prayer for Lonnie. We decided it was the intent of the creator for man to test their limits against His own creations.

[Gan]

My pastor also said that Lonnie needs to affix his tent to the outside of his backpack in the form of wings so that the 100mph winds can deliver him on the backs of angel's wings to the summit.


And it shall come to pass, that whosoever shall call on the name of the Lord shall be delivered : Amos 5:4

[Showal]

I thought that Lonnie should have commanded the sun to stop in the sky (Is it not written in the book of Jashar?) so he could have extra time to climb. Joshua 10:13

[NocturnalRob]

The school that Lonnie went to had co-ed dorms.

[Showal]

The school that Lonnie went to had co-ed dorms.

his parents should be ashamed of themselves.

[Showal]

this appears to only be an issue for current students not people running for public office.